Rome is a pretty cool city. Lots of old stuff.
July 5: I woke up yesterday ready to start my conquest of the city Rome. I had signed up for a walking tour at 2pm so I planned to explore a bit, grab lunch and plot the rest of my days during the morning. The exploring and lunch went fine (I got a pizza from this shop. No big deal except for some reason I ordered a pizza topped with ingredients that I would never order in the States, olives, artichokes, mushrooms, and hard boiled eggs. Actually the only thing on the pizza that I actually eat was ham. IDK why I had a taste for these things all of a sudden but the pizza was delish and I ate the whole thing.)
Now planning the rest of my days?? There is are so many things to see in Rome. I got so incredibly overwhelmed as I was planning. I just about wanted to rip up the guidebook, put all the pages in a bag and just pick things out. I purchased a Roma Pass which gives you unlimited access to the metro for three days, entry into two sites and discounts on everything else. I picked out some of the things that I really wanted to see and hoped that the walking tour would hit all the other important points.
The tour was good. But it was ridiculous amounts of hot! It was a four and a half hour tour, which is fine with me. I would have been walking around all that time anyway and I think the Roman Empire is amazing so the nerd in me was just eating up all the facts. When the tour was over I returned to the hostel and planned on going to happy hour at the hostel bar with some of he girls I met on the tour. They either stood me up or we missed each other but I ended up just spending the night at the bar with my roommates. Sipping limoncello as they had Aussie talk.
I woke up this morning with a cold. :( My nose is a leaking faucet and my throat has been scrubbed with brillo all night. I'm going to the grocers to get tissues and maybe something to make me feel better. Any suggestions?
Either way, this cold won't stop me. Today's agenda, Colosseum!!
Tuesday, July 6, 2010
Monday, July 5, 2010
More stars, more stripes
Commentary
I was just thinking, why can't I wear a USA flag on my backpack? I mean, I could but no one would say that is a good idea. Canadians have maple leaves all over their luggage and I know they are not more proud than Americans. Not more proud than me. I even saw an Aussie with standard blazing. I see America in every country I visit and most times when I tell the natives (why does that sound racist?) that I'm from the US they get so excited. I offer to sign autographs sometimes (j/p). So why is it a bad idea for me to rep my hood? I don't quite remember anymore.
I was just thinking, why can't I wear a USA flag on my backpack? I mean, I could but no one would say that is a good idea. Canadians have maple leaves all over their luggage and I know they are not more proud than Americans. Not more proud than me. I even saw an Aussie with standard blazing. I see America in every country I visit and most times when I tell the natives (why does that sound racist?) that I'm from the US they get so excited. I offer to sign autographs sometimes (j/p). So why is it a bad idea for me to rep my hood? I don't quite remember anymore.
Sunday, July 4, 2010
Five Lands and the Leaning Tower
Bonjourno. Whoever suggested that I just stop by Pisa on my way to Rome (was that you Rob?), good call. I'm glad I got to see the Leaning Tower. And that is really all there is in Pisa. I planned to stay for four hours and that was more than enough. Now I am back on the train, heading to Roma.
Where did I leave off...
July 2:
I woke up pretty early since I wanted to get some of my hike in before it got too hot. I gathered up some groceries for breakfast, yogurt, grapefruit juice and focaccia bread. *note on bread* The French know bread. They do it so very well. I have never been disappointed by something that started as dough and was put in a French oven. But I must say, that focaccia...It is delicious. All seasoned up with herbs and dripping with oil. mmmm...*end note* After breakfast, I stopped by the hostel office to see if I could get another night. I'd have to wait until Amy came in at 10:30/11:00. Yeah...I'm going on my hike. And I did. It was gorgeous...and HOT!!
*geography* Cinque Terre means Five Lands and that is exactly what it is. There are these five little villages linked together by trains and hiking trails. For your reference, I was staying in Riomaggiore, the southernmost village. Next is Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterossa. *geography*
Contrary to advice, I started at Riomaggiore. I knew that would make my last two legs the hardest but I figured that once I was done with my hike I would be in the village with the best beach. If I were to redo it, I would have definitely listed to that advice and just trained back to the beach. By the time I got to Vernazza (the fourth town) I was exhausted, hot and very sweaty. I even contemplated taking the train to the last village since I knew that the hike from Vernazza to Montorossa was the longest and the toughest. My hike in the Alps was much harder and longer but in the Alps it's not 89 degrees. (I don't actually know how hot it was but I don't think that is an exaggeration at all). I somehow convinced myself to do it and an hour and a half later, I was at the beach. So worth it.
Especially worth it because on the hike a group of four passed me. Plenty of people passed me on my hike but this group was very friendly and asked, "How are you today?" (to which I replied, "Tired!") I ended up seeing them on the beach and chatting with them for a bit. And then I met them again at the train platform. *more on Italian trains* They think schedules are suggestions apparently. I haven't left the platform at the scheduled time since France. In fact, it is rare that I am on physically on the train when it is scheduled to leave. I'm usually looking down the platform checking my watch. *end note on trenos* Anyway, whilst waiting for the late train, my new friends (from Canada and LA) invited me to dinner. One of the guys is talented with a spatula and a salt shaker and was making dinner in the apartment they rented. I accepted the invitation.
When we finally got back to Riomaggiore, we arranged a time for me to meet them and I went to try to get another night (I don't think I mentioned this but I asked for an extra night when I first made my reservation and again when checked in. Amy and I obviously have very different schedules.) Amy wasn't there. But the lady at the desk gave her a call and all was good. Another night and I would be in the same room!
I showered and met up with the cool kids and we chatted while dinner was being prepared. Dinner was yummy. A sumptuous cut of veal with a rub of herbs, roasted potatoes and carrots, sauteed peppers and fresh green beans. I forgot the wonders of a home cooked meal. After dinner we went to THE bar to watch the end of the game. During the game I had gelato number two of the day and I decided I needed to limit myself to one a day before I end up fat and broke. Ghana (to everyone's disappointment) lost the match. And then we made our way to the marina to look at stars. I decided to hang out with the lady of the group because the guys (as guys do) had found some new lady friends. We had some girl talk and she suggested I watch the sunset out in the marina the following day. I put it on my very empty to do list for the next day.
Around midnight I was pretty tired and so was my lady friend so we called it a night. Turns out she will be in Florence the same time that I will so we may meet up.
July 3:
I had only planned to watch the sunset and get pesto in Vernazza. I figured I would find somewhere in one of the villages to read for the rest off the day. I slept in (until 10) and then lazily started my day. Grocery breakfast and I was off. At the train station, I made a change of plans and decided to go to La Spezia instead of one of the villages. Nothing big to report from La Spezia. I did meet a creeper. He wasn't generally creepy, he was kinda nice. But then he kept popping up. It's not a big town but I am sure it is big enough to lose a creepy mcstalkerton. Anyway, I was only there for about an hour or so before I was heading Manarola. I didn't stay there long either, just long enough to walk around the small village. To Vernazza for dinner. My original plan was to go to the restaurant famed for their pesto but when I saw that a plate of pasta would cost me 22 euros I gave up on that idea. I found a place where I could get a plate of homemade pasta and pesto for 6 euros. It was tasty. It is possible that the fancy restaurant would have been better, but I am sure that any Italian in Cinque Terre can throw down on a plate of pesto. They invited it afterall.
Time for gelato! To Monterosso! I got lemon and fragole. IDK if anybody but Rob will remember when I fell in love with my ice cream cone in Monaco. Well I now know why. It was Italian gelato. That strawberry (fragole) tasted exactly like the strawberry in Monaco. And it makes since. Monaco is just over the border. If only that gelato could infiltrate France...and the US. After the gelato I was going to walk around Monterosso but I just wanted to head back. I got to Riomaggorie, bought some wine, and went off to the marina. AMAZING sunset.
To THE bar for the match. I caught a glimpse of GT tee shirt out of the corner of my eye. Turns out Cinque Terre is full of GT undergrads. GT Lorraine had a four day weekend. Go Jackets? Spain won. I went back to my room to pack and called it a night.
July 4:
I decided to have a real breakfast this morning since it would be a long day on the train and I didn't have snacks. I got an ham, cheese, tomato, and mushroom omelet. It was delicious but VERY small. I swear they must have used one egg.
After breakfast I hopped on the train to Pisa and about an hour later hopped off. I checked my bags at the train station and went to find lunch (of course with the help of the office of tourism). I stopped at a restaurant boasting a menu for 8,50. *Why they tryna stick me for my paypa* Switzerland was super expensive. Italy is not expensive, but I feel like I am constantly being ripped off. For instance, most restaurants have had a "cover charge" so in addition to my meal, their European taxes, and the servis compri, I also have to add in 3 euros? And they won't give me tap water either. I know those Romans made it so you just have to go outside and dip a cup in a freakin fountain. I don't need your bottled water. *damn* 10 euros later I had had lasgana and steamed veggies. The first disappointing meal of Italy. It was good, but it was no better than what I can do in my own kitchen.
After lunch I was off to the Tower. It really is on the ill lean. I had three different people take pictures of me holding up the tower. None of them were that great but the first was the best. Good job Argentinian girl (I have met a lot of them this trip). I thought about going into the cathedral there but decided to spend those 2 euro on gelato.
Italy is pretty much exactly what I expected. Good food and everyone is very...Italian. The one thing that surprised me is gelato. I know everyone has told me about it and I expected it to be amazing. But not THIS amazing. I had just finished my cathedral euro gelato (coconut and pineapple) when I walked past another gelato shop and I SERIOUSLY contemplated getting another. I am trying my hardest to keep it to one a day. They are just so divine!
After gelato, since there is really nothing else to do in Pisa, I went back to the train, picked up my luggage, bought a reservation for the train to Rome (10 euro! I suppose it's not bad but it's only 3 in France.) While I was there, I also sorted out my date mix up for my reservation on the overnight train from Venice to Paris. And that about covers it. Now I am headed to Rome to have a cheeseburger in celebration of America's Independence from the Monarchy. Stars & Stripes!!
*several hours later*
IDK if this was hunger or the fact that it is Italy but, that McDonald's was amazing. The best place to get a burger around here turned out to be MickeyD's, which I think is an appropriate place to celebrate the Fourth of July if you are in a foreign country. Not many people get to celebrate the Fourth at the American embassy after all. McRoyal deluxe as they called it. Burger with lettuce and tomato, cheese and mayo. And can you ever say enough for coke from the fountain? McYum.
Where did I leave off...
July 2:
I woke up pretty early since I wanted to get some of my hike in before it got too hot. I gathered up some groceries for breakfast, yogurt, grapefruit juice and focaccia bread. *note on bread* The French know bread. They do it so very well. I have never been disappointed by something that started as dough and was put in a French oven. But I must say, that focaccia...It is delicious. All seasoned up with herbs and dripping with oil. mmmm...*end note* After breakfast, I stopped by the hostel office to see if I could get another night. I'd have to wait until Amy came in at 10:30/11:00. Yeah...I'm going on my hike. And I did. It was gorgeous...and HOT!!
*geography* Cinque Terre means Five Lands and that is exactly what it is. There are these five little villages linked together by trains and hiking trails. For your reference, I was staying in Riomaggiore, the southernmost village. Next is Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterossa. *geography*
Contrary to advice, I started at Riomaggiore. I knew that would make my last two legs the hardest but I figured that once I was done with my hike I would be in the village with the best beach. If I were to redo it, I would have definitely listed to that advice and just trained back to the beach. By the time I got to Vernazza (the fourth town) I was exhausted, hot and very sweaty. I even contemplated taking the train to the last village since I knew that the hike from Vernazza to Montorossa was the longest and the toughest. My hike in the Alps was much harder and longer but in the Alps it's not 89 degrees. (I don't actually know how hot it was but I don't think that is an exaggeration at all). I somehow convinced myself to do it and an hour and a half later, I was at the beach. So worth it.
Especially worth it because on the hike a group of four passed me. Plenty of people passed me on my hike but this group was very friendly and asked, "How are you today?" (to which I replied, "Tired!") I ended up seeing them on the beach and chatting with them for a bit. And then I met them again at the train platform. *more on Italian trains* They think schedules are suggestions apparently. I haven't left the platform at the scheduled time since France. In fact, it is rare that I am on physically on the train when it is scheduled to leave. I'm usually looking down the platform checking my watch. *end note on trenos* Anyway, whilst waiting for the late train, my new friends (from Canada and LA) invited me to dinner. One of the guys is talented with a spatula and a salt shaker and was making dinner in the apartment they rented. I accepted the invitation.
When we finally got back to Riomaggiore, we arranged a time for me to meet them and I went to try to get another night (I don't think I mentioned this but I asked for an extra night when I first made my reservation and again when checked in. Amy and I obviously have very different schedules.) Amy wasn't there. But the lady at the desk gave her a call and all was good. Another night and I would be in the same room!
I showered and met up with the cool kids and we chatted while dinner was being prepared. Dinner was yummy. A sumptuous cut of veal with a rub of herbs, roasted potatoes and carrots, sauteed peppers and fresh green beans. I forgot the wonders of a home cooked meal. After dinner we went to THE bar to watch the end of the game. During the game I had gelato number two of the day and I decided I needed to limit myself to one a day before I end up fat and broke. Ghana (to everyone's disappointment) lost the match. And then we made our way to the marina to look at stars. I decided to hang out with the lady of the group because the guys (as guys do) had found some new lady friends. We had some girl talk and she suggested I watch the sunset out in the marina the following day. I put it on my very empty to do list for the next day.
Around midnight I was pretty tired and so was my lady friend so we called it a night. Turns out she will be in Florence the same time that I will so we may meet up.
July 3:
I had only planned to watch the sunset and get pesto in Vernazza. I figured I would find somewhere in one of the villages to read for the rest off the day. I slept in (until 10) and then lazily started my day. Grocery breakfast and I was off. At the train station, I made a change of plans and decided to go to La Spezia instead of one of the villages. Nothing big to report from La Spezia. I did meet a creeper. He wasn't generally creepy, he was kinda nice. But then he kept popping up. It's not a big town but I am sure it is big enough to lose a creepy mcstalkerton. Anyway, I was only there for about an hour or so before I was heading Manarola. I didn't stay there long either, just long enough to walk around the small village. To Vernazza for dinner. My original plan was to go to the restaurant famed for their pesto but when I saw that a plate of pasta would cost me 22 euros I gave up on that idea. I found a place where I could get a plate of homemade pasta and pesto for 6 euros. It was tasty. It is possible that the fancy restaurant would have been better, but I am sure that any Italian in Cinque Terre can throw down on a plate of pesto. They invited it afterall.
Time for gelato! To Monterosso! I got lemon and fragole. IDK if anybody but Rob will remember when I fell in love with my ice cream cone in Monaco. Well I now know why. It was Italian gelato. That strawberry (fragole) tasted exactly like the strawberry in Monaco. And it makes since. Monaco is just over the border. If only that gelato could infiltrate France...and the US. After the gelato I was going to walk around Monterosso but I just wanted to head back. I got to Riomaggorie, bought some wine, and went off to the marina. AMAZING sunset.
To THE bar for the match. I caught a glimpse of GT tee shirt out of the corner of my eye. Turns out Cinque Terre is full of GT undergrads. GT Lorraine had a four day weekend. Go Jackets? Spain won. I went back to my room to pack and called it a night.
July 4:
I decided to have a real breakfast this morning since it would be a long day on the train and I didn't have snacks. I got an ham, cheese, tomato, and mushroom omelet. It was delicious but VERY small. I swear they must have used one egg.
After breakfast I hopped on the train to Pisa and about an hour later hopped off. I checked my bags at the train station and went to find lunch (of course with the help of the office of tourism). I stopped at a restaurant boasting a menu for 8,50. *Why they tryna stick me for my paypa* Switzerland was super expensive. Italy is not expensive, but I feel like I am constantly being ripped off. For instance, most restaurants have had a "cover charge" so in addition to my meal, their European taxes, and the servis compri, I also have to add in 3 euros? And they won't give me tap water either. I know those Romans made it so you just have to go outside and dip a cup in a freakin fountain. I don't need your bottled water. *damn* 10 euros later I had had lasgana and steamed veggies. The first disappointing meal of Italy. It was good, but it was no better than what I can do in my own kitchen.
After lunch I was off to the Tower. It really is on the ill lean. I had three different people take pictures of me holding up the tower. None of them were that great but the first was the best. Good job Argentinian girl (I have met a lot of them this trip). I thought about going into the cathedral there but decided to spend those 2 euro on gelato.
Italy is pretty much exactly what I expected. Good food and everyone is very...Italian. The one thing that surprised me is gelato. I know everyone has told me about it and I expected it to be amazing. But not THIS amazing. I had just finished my cathedral euro gelato (coconut and pineapple) when I walked past another gelato shop and I SERIOUSLY contemplated getting another. I am trying my hardest to keep it to one a day. They are just so divine!
After gelato, since there is really nothing else to do in Pisa, I went back to the train, picked up my luggage, bought a reservation for the train to Rome (10 euro! I suppose it's not bad but it's only 3 in France.) While I was there, I also sorted out my date mix up for my reservation on the overnight train from Venice to Paris. And that about covers it. Now I am headed to Rome to have a cheeseburger in celebration of America's Independence from the Monarchy. Stars & Stripes!!
*several hours later*
IDK if this was hunger or the fact that it is Italy but, that McDonald's was amazing. The best place to get a burger around here turned out to be MickeyD's, which I think is an appropriate place to celebrate the Fourth of July if you are in a foreign country. Not many people get to celebrate the Fourth at the American embassy after all. McRoyal deluxe as they called it. Burger with lettuce and tomato, cheese and mayo. And can you ever say enough for coke from the fountain? McYum.
Stars & Stripes BABY!!
Happy Fourth of July
It was my original goal to be in England for the Fourth. I wanted to spike a football in front of Buckingham Palace and shout "1776 b*tches!" whilst doing a couple pelvic thrusts, maybe a bit of the wop. I thought about even breaking out the snake...or the running man. (I hope you all pictured that going down)
Saturday, July 3, 2010
Enter Italia
Last 7/1 entry and not written on the train.
July 1:
Time to bid France farewell for now. I checked out and went to the train station to catch my 10:23 train. And within an hour I was in Italy. I do not like Italian trains. Second class has no ac and I had to put on an emotional show for the conductor not to confiscate my rail pass when I hadn't written the date on it. (I will admit that I should have done this but it was so not a big deal in France, I guess I expected the same in Italy. Not so much.) But I do like the food. Within 6 hours of being in Italy, I had a delicious meal. When I got to Riomaggoire, the southernmost village of Cinque Terre, I consulted Let's Go to find a restaurant. I figured the first Italian meal should be special. It only had one suggestion for this village so I decided to try it. Funny thing, I was sitting outside pirating wifi and a couple came up to me to ask me where the restaurant was. I told them I had no clue but I intended to go there once I finished stealing internet. Apparently the restaurant is acclaimed and I know why now. Prawn with homemade pasta in truffle sauce and baked sea bass. Yum!!
My original intent was to have a drink at THE bar in town which also happens to be right below my hostel. But I'm stuffed, tired, and it's not poppin to the point where I would feel like going anyway. Plus I have a long day of hiking ahead of me tomorrow. In fact, I think I will call it a night.
Beach, beach and more beach
Also written 7/1
I don't know how necessary a day by day recap on Nice is. I literally laid on the beach all day.
June 28:
Once the Spaniards left, I went for lunch (another long hunt for kabab. I don't understand why kabab shops are everywhere when I want to eat something nice and no where when I really want a kabab) and then to the beach. After somewhere between three and five hours, I decided to get dinner. The moule and frites that are so appropriate for the Rivera. After dinner I decided to get a drink at Wayne's which turned into an adventure all it's own. Is it possible to get enough of dancing on tables in a hot sweaty dive bar as the live band plays Sweet Home Alabama?
June 29:
I laid on the beach. Just about all day. At least 5 hours. Cycling between napping, reading, hopping in the Mediterranean to cool off and listening to Skyrock. I eventually got hungry and decided to make my own lunch. I bought a pasta salad from Monoprix and doctored it up with some cherry tomatoes, cucumbers, chorizo and a side of brioche.
I dined back at the hostel while watching some French soap opera on TV. As I finished, a couple "Yanks" joined the room. After showers, we decided to get ice cream. The place we went to made ice cream into little flowers!
After our snack, we parted ways and I took a walk around Old Town (every city in France has an old town I realized). When I returned to the hostel, the Yanks had been join by a Brit (this chick was a talking machine. She just didn't stop.) and were deciding what to get for dinner. I joined them. We ended up going to this kabab shop. But it was one of the fancy ones and I actually got what us Americans would call a kabab (you know, the meat on a stick. They call it shish. I suppose I never actually explained kabab. I will take a picture next time. It's a huge hunk of meat that spins around cooking all day and the Turkish people who are bound to own the restaurant shave the meat and stuff it into a pita.) I had chicken and veal. It was so good. The Brit wanted a crepe, I had more than enough sweets for the day with the ice cream and the cookies I had after my lunch (habit's getting worse) I intended to just get a coffee as they ate crepes but the place they went charged an additional 40% for cafe after 7pm. WHAT? I refused to get it out of principle. After the crepes the Brit and I went to get a drink and watch the rest of the Brazil match (I really couldn't have cared less about the match but I had nothing else to do). We ended up at Wayne's and once the game was over the same band played the same set list to a new group of people. Maybe it is possible to tire of that scene. We left shortly after the match was over and returned to the hostel.
June 30:
Uh, I laid on the beach for hours. Lunch of pasta salad left overs to more soaps. Then back to the beach. When it started getting chilly (by beach standards) I went back to take a shower. When I got back to the hostel I realized I had a nice sunburn on my torso. I also found that the chatty Brit and a couple of the other roommates were going to dinner. I passed. I am at the point where I am actually enjoying being by myself, and I also was tired of hear that chick talk. I went out for dinner about an hour later. Since it would be my last French meal for a few weeks I wanted it to be French so I did crêpes. A savory ham, cheese and tomato and a sweet nutella served with cidre and café to finish. And guess what was on the restaurant's tv. My favorite French dubbed cop show with Shamar Moore. I hung out at the crêperie for a long time, just reading and ppl watching. The owner and garcon were really nice and I felt comfortable there. I eventually started getting chilly since I still had on shorts and the breeze had picked up. I decided I would head back to the hostel but first I would sit out by the beach on last time.
Lost days in Lyon
Written 7/1
Train ride catch up. Let me fill you in on the two days in Lyon.
June 26:
I woke up bright and early in order to explore the city. But first I wanted to skype my parents. Turns out wifi is 4 euros at this hostel and cuts off at midnight. I decided to get the most out of my 4 euros so despite the early beginning to my day, I didn't actually leave the hostel until lunch time.
And for lunch? I had read about this place where you can cook your own meal with a chef. With Lyon being the gastronomic capital of France, it seemed perfect. I made my way to the little shop knowing that not making a reservation was bound to leave me implementing a Plan B. And it did. They were booked but the receptionist was really nice and pointed me in the direction of a bouchon, which is a traditional Lyonnaise restaurant that serves traditional French food. Works out fine since I was intending to have dinner at a bouchon anyway. I sit down in this little family run, homey looking, French version of a diner. I end up sitting for quite a long time as there is only one menu that the owner explains to each person. Of course it was a little more difficult for him to explain it to me as I speak minimal French. Luckily, in all the time that elapsed between me sitting down and actually getting a glimpse at the menu, a couple sat at the table next to me (more like AT my table since they were so close) and their English was impeccable. They went through every dish for me and explained exactly what it was and how to order. Another French guy sat down at our table also. He, however, spoke no English but he spoke French so slowly that I actually understood most of what he said. Anyway, we all ended up ordering and eating together.
I started off with escargots, no better place to have a traditional French dish than at a traditional French restaurant. For my entree (or plat in French. Entree actually means the first course) I had this backed fish biscuit thing. The couple tried to tell me that this fish dish was a sausage but that thing was a big biscuit. I could barely even taste the fish. Either way, it was pretty good. It was in this really rich red sauce which turned out to be creme, wine, and lobster sauce. Now the snails? They were yummy. This is probably because they were in the richest creamiest buttery garlic sauce. *note on my palette* I swear my taste buds are not build to admire subtlety. Give me sweet, salty, buttery. That is all I really want. I will not taste the hint of tarragon. I have no clue what tarragon really tastes like. But know deliciousness. It is usually bold and it makes me happy when I eat it. *end note on palette* My main dish, the sausage fish biscuit thing came with a huge side of potatoes au gratin and some diced and sautéed veggies. The meal was polished off with espresso (as it should be). In addition to quite a meal, the owner took the whole restaurant on a little tour of the traboule outside. A traboule is a secret passage way and they are all over Lyon. Apparently, they used to use them to transport silk throughout the city in the rain. Seems as if this secret passage came into a different purpose. Thanks to my new bilingual friends, I was informed that a brothel used to be in the building behind the restaurant. The secret passage was a way for men to get in and out without being seen. The owner gave a lot more details in French (far to quickly for me to keep up with) and my lunch mates did their best to summarize his narrative. We went back in and had a glass of wine. And about two and a half hours after I originally sat down, I was finally heading off to see Lyon.
I had stopped by the office de tourism on my way to lunch so I had a map. I had also checked out some of the options for tours but decided that I would just go see the main points of interest to me. These were the Vieux Lyon, Fourvière, Cathedral St. Jean and the traboules and bouchon which I had just crossed off my list. I also added macarons to the list and the couple suggested that I go to the huge city park. I hopped on and off Lyon's subways and trams making my way to the sights. The Basilica Notre Dame on Fourvière was GORGEOUS. The view from this hill was also pretty cool. As I stared up at the Tour de L'Observation (an Eiffel Tower looking structure) I was hit by a sudden and intense need to relieve my bladder. Finding an appropriate place turned out to be quite a difficult task. Luckily my bladder is fairly resilient because it wasn't until about an hour later that I found a Starbucks. (Granted within that hour I had to walk down the hill and of course I wandered upon other sites like the Hotel de Ville that had an exhibition on the murals of Lyon. I added these murals to my list. I also saw the opera house and quite a bit of Vieux Lyon on my hunt for a bathroom.) Once that matter was sorted, I stopped at a couple of shops. Lyon is quite cheap by French/European standards. With 13 euros I got a striped tank, very French, and some pants. *Hammer time* it seems as if parachute pants are trying to make a comeback and have taken a foothold in Lyon. In every shop there were these things, in ever color and varient of style. Luckily, I didn't see anyone actually wearing them.*Hammer time over*
After shopping, I decided to grab a sandwich and have dinner at the park. This turned out to be more difficult than finding a kabab the day before. Patisseries in Lyon don't seem to stay open past 5. I searched fruitlessly for an hour before I decided to just go to the grocery store and buy sandwich supplies. Baguette, garlic cheese spread and Italian ham in hand I went to the park to dine. I found a spot by the lake and made supper. One good thing did come of my hour of searching for a sandwich, I found maracons. I had them for dessert and they were divine. I do not know why I waited until Lyon to try them. I think I will be loading up on them in Paris when I return.
By this time the US/Ghana game was well underway and I really was quite interested in watching. I had seen a bit of the last Ghana game and they were pretty beasty. Plus in my conversation with the couple at the bouchon, the husband informed me that the US and Ghana teams have the same style of play and it should be a really interesting match. It was! I found an Irish pub at Place Paccard right by my tram stop and watched the second half of the match. It was so intense and very entertaining. After that match, I finally understood why people bother watching soccer. As you know, the US did not emerge victorious so I settled my tab and made my way back to the hostel for the night.
June 27:
I had debated staying in Lyon an additional day since the train strike had stolen a day from me. Rather than stay over night, I decided to get up early and see the final things on my list before catching a 3pm train. Despite my list being very short (Lyon Confluence, murals, traboules at Place Colbert) it took all morning. I did also stop at the train station to purchase my reservation for the TGV which took about an hour. And I got distracted by all the Sunday markets around the city (I bought 2 pair of ballet flats for 5 euros, like 2,50 each!) Anyway, I ended up rushing to my train and if it had not been late, I would have definitely missed it. The train was over an hour late (but I wasn't complaining) and then the stop in Marseilles was also extended by about a half hour. I didn't end up arriving in Nice until about 10:30. And this is when I met the Pink Lady I told you about earlier.
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