Written 6/25
I hate Switzerland. To be fair, maybe I just hate Geneva. It is the most annoying, confusing, and expensive city I have ever had the pleasure (it was kinda a pleasure) of visiting. Let me tell you how I ended up in Switzerland...again.
June 24:
At the conclusion of my Alpine adventure, I decided that I would make a stop in Geneva on my way to Lyon. Just to get chocolate. I felt like I had cheated myself by not taking the unexpected opportunity that I was given when I accidentally ended up there. Since it was fairly close (and I knew the train went straight to Lyon from Geneva) I decided I would make a visit on purpose this time. I looked up trains at the chalet when I returned from my hike. The SNCF train site had some sort of news flash that said something about "supprime." Thanks to some help from Google translate, I figured out that the trains were on strike from 8pm Wednesday to 8am Friday...Just long enough to mess with my travel plans. I double checked to see that my trains were in fact not running. The one from Argentiére was not (it just wouldn't be right for me to actually use that train station would it?) but the train from Geneva to Lyon was. So I figured I could at least find a way to Geneva.
I got up on the 24th and proceeded as if there was no strike. I packed, put on my backpack and headed out to catch the 10:16 train that would put me in Geneva at 1pm, giving me four to six good hours of chocolate hunting before I would have to catch my train to Lyon. I trekked to the train station to find what I expected, there was indeed a strike. With little idea of what to do at this point, I headed back to the chalet. I stopped by the office de tourisme to ask about bus options. There was one at 4pm. Not optimum. I was hoping that the chalet owner may have an idea or two. He did. There is an airport shuttle to Geneva from the Chamonix area. 25 Euros. Cool. I call and schedule the first pick up they have at 1pm.
One comes. One goes. One thirty comes. One thirty goes. I call them back and it seems that the original driver did not follow directions so they would come and get me "straight away." And they did. I was in Geneva by 3:30. I would never make the 4:58 train with a chocolate hunt. I went to the ticket counter to make sure that the 6:58 train was an option. Turns out the SNCF site lied to me or the train workers changed their mind over night. The trains to Lyon were also canceled. Seems as if I will have plenty of time for a chocolate hunt.
As is the process in these unexpected cases, the first step is to find wifi. Conveniently the café next to the ticket counter had wifi. I bought a 3 euro coffee that granted me the relief that internet connection provides in stressful times. Hostelworld.com was not holding me down. But Mike's Let's Go Western Europe led me to Home de St. Pierre. After a quick skype call (that $10 credit was the best $10 ever spent), I had a place to lay my head for the night. Now I just had to get there.
Part I of why I hate Geneva - It is utterly confusing to a new comer. I am sure Geneva makes complete sense to its residents and probably to anyone who stays there for a couple days, but to me, completely and utterly confusing. The train station the shuttle dropped me off at was the airport train station, outside of the city. So I had to take a train to the train station in the city. Simple enough. But there is no direction as to where to buy ticket. And once a nice Swiss man helps you buy said ticket, there is no direction as to where to catch the train. And once on said train, you will realize that you wasted 3 euro on said ticket because the trip is 6 minutes and no one checks said ticket.
So at the city center train station, in accordance with procedure, I try to find an office de tourisme to secure a map and make my way to the hostel. There is no office of tourism here. There is not so much as a map of the city hung on the wall (OK I'm sure there was, I just couldn't find it). Let's Go once again proved its worth. The map of Geneva within this nifty guide lead me to the general vicinity of the hostel, right behind the cathedral, at the very top of the hill. This was no short walk (especially with sore quads and gluts). And finally, the weather had turned hot and sunny, which is great, unless you are lugging 40 pounds up a medieval street to the top of a hill. When I finally reached the hostel, I was completely out of breath, very frustrated, and very sweaty. I attempted to pay the reception lady who took a sideways glance at the euros in my hand.
Part II of why I hate Geneva - Why do you have your own currency?! You are not England. In fact, as you are situated right smack in the center of the EU. You of all countries should use the Euro. Not even France uses the Franc anymore. Stop making things difficult!
I was off to find an ATM to get Francs. There is a bright side to this. I got a little lost and ended up at a chocolatiere and had a couple samples. Cappuccino chocolate. mmmmmm.....
When I finally get things sorted and settle in, I meet my Aussie roommate who has suffered a travellers worst nightmare, her luggage was lost. We discussed this for a while over some Lay's (bolognaise flavored) and I tried to map out my chocolate hunt. I figured that as it was about 6, I would not be making it to many if any chocolate houses. I tucked the map away (this map was incredibly unhelpful as it was just about completely illegible. I did not use it once.) Off to explore the city.
I had no clue what anything was since I had not gone to the office of tourism and had not read more than a paragraph about Geneva so I literally just wandered through the city snapping pictures of things that looked cool or like they may be important. I only had two things to see on my list, the geyser (which I had peeped on my long walk to the hostel) and the cathedral (which was right by the hostel). Once I made my way walking around a good deal of the city center, I stopped at the Jardin Anglais and sat around. During my walk, I did add one additional item onto my list, the transit system. There is an intricate web of bus and light rail lines across the city. I had been given a pass with my hostel check in. I hopped on a bus and then a light rail, then another light rail, and a bus. Just riding around the city. *sidenote* IDK how the fare system works. No one pays or shows a pass when you get on. In fact, you don't get on through the front door. The fare is probably included in the astronomical taxes. *end note* When the sun threatened to set, I decided to end my tour in vieux ville (the old city) where the cathedral and hostel are. And once the sun set, I realized my hunger.
Part III of why I hate Geneva - It is the most expensive city I have ever visited. New York, Paris, Hong Kong have nothing on Geneva. In all those places you could find a kabab or hot dog to snack on for a few dollars. Oh no, not in Geneva. Only fancy and pricey places. It is possible that somewhere out of old town it is cheaper, but in all the day's journeys it seemed like Geneva is just overall over priced. I appreciate the golden arches as a symbol of home, but hate eating there. I had actually given in. I had surrendered to Ronald and found a McDonald's to provide me a cheap snack...12 Francs (something like $13/14) for a meal?! Not a chance. I marched right to a fancy Italian restaurant. If I'm gonna get ripped off, it's gonna be delicious. And it was. Veggie pizza dressed with thin curling slices of eggplant, zucchini, artichoke, and peppers of all colours (OMG I typed this on first instinct!!). Too bad I had the most atrocious waitress. She did not speak English, but I am sure she also did not speak French. There are some things I can say pretty well now, "Where is the bathroom?" and "I would just like a carafe of tap water." Niether of which she seemed to comprehend. In fact, she was so befuddled by my request for tap water that I just gave in and ordered a glass of wine. I am not buying a $8 bottle of still water when I can have a $7 glass of wine. Yeah that's right $7 glass of wine. And that was as cheap as it gets. My pizza was 21 francs so somewhere in the range of $25. The total bill ended up being the equivalent of 22 euros. That is about my budget for a full day. Reasons why I hate Geneva.
June 25:
Since I did not fulfill the purpose for my trip to Switzerland on the 24th, I got an early start today and hit the city to find chocolate. And I did, everywhere. For breakfast I had the most delicious pain au chocolat that I have ever had from one chocolatiere and and a muffin of orange cake in a cocoa shell topped with a dusting of cocoa powder from another. I stopped in numerous stores just to smell the potent aroma. le sigh. le yum. In the end, a bought a couple samples from one of the many stores (and also put an end to my supply of Francs). I grabbed a sandwich on the way back to the hostel to have for lunch on the train to Lyon. A 7 euro sandwich...
I gathered my stuff at the hostel, did a bit of FB'ing and skyping and then made my way to the train station around noon. A bit of a walk, and two buses later, I was walking through the train station, searching for somewhere to buy a water, with euros. It did not happen. So while sitting on this train, I am no longer hungry, but I cannot get to Lyon fast enough to moisten my parched throat.
Several hours later:
To ensure me that I am not in control, the train stopped. IDK why, I don't think the conductor ever explained. But I spent an hour at some obscure train station, just waiting. I arrived in Lyon about an hour and a half to two hours late. Luckily I was in no hurry (other than my impending death by thirst). It took a bit of sleuthing but I figured out the correct bus to get to the hostel. I checked in and went straight to the supermarket for water. I was also quite hungry and the hostel didn't have a map so I decided to head to the city center to find the office de tourisme and get a kabab *note on kababs* Kababs are the ultimate clutch meal. They are delicious, cheap, and come with frites. I try not to eat them too often because I am afraid I will get tired of them. But each time I have one I think I should have them more, maybe every night. Why don't we have kabab stands in the States? I will miss them so.*end note* The office de tourisme was closed (not too surprising since I arrived in the city fairly late) so I went straight for kababs. This task should not have been so difficult but somehow I ended up in Fendi, Prada, Gucci Land and there is no spinning meat in this fairy tale place. *another note* I first thought that I was just instinctively drawn to these stores but the more French cities I visit, the more I think they will put a Chanel store anywhere as long as it's not the "hood." *end note* I eventually find my delish dinner and end it with some nutella ice cream from a store along Boulevard de Victor Hugo. I sit in Place de Perrache for a while eating my ice cream and people watching before I decide to turn in early (8pm) for the night.
I am off to explore thee city of Lyon. Pictures will be uploaded soon enough.
OMG Stef! LOOOOVE the updates :-) Hahaha, u must have been FREAKIN' out coming down the hill at night and ending up in a different country, and yes GENEVA is as expensive as hell....we split a Pizza for $50! $50 for a pizza!!!!!!!!!!!
ReplyDeleteAnyway, even though you are having some "OMFG what did I just do and am I gonna be stranded out here on this mountain for the rest of my life," you'll look back on this trip and LOVE it! :-)
xoxo,
Mike